2010 EVENT SUMMARY | 2010 WINE REPORT | PAST WINNERS | 2009 EVENT SUMMARY | CANADIAN WINE INDUSTRY STEPS UP TO THE PODIUM
VANCOUVER - A qualification event for the Canadian Culinary Championships
Event Chair: Greg McDougall and Jim Heppell
2011 GOLD MEDAL PLATES VANCOUVER WINNERS
Gold Medallist: Rob Feenie - Cactus Club Restaurants. Paired with Haywire Winery 2010 Pinot Gris
Silver Medallist: Dale MacKay- ensemble Restaurant. Paired with Laughing Stock Vineyards 2010 Pinot Gris
Bronze Medallist: Joël Watanabe - Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie. Paired with Road 13 Vineyards Sparkling Chenin Blanc
JAMES CHATTO'S REPORT (www.jameschatto.com)
Friday night in Vancouver! The Westin Bayshore hotel welcomed Gold Medal Plates in style and the fabulous weather that we have encountered around the country continued to hold. Stately boats floated motionless in the marina outside the hotel; seagulls drifted across a cerulean sky; the mountains (their peaks dusted with snow) posed with typical B.C. nonchalance. Inside the building, however, all was action. Indeed, as night closed in, the tempo and the excitement built to a pitch that can only be described as wild and crazy. Alan Doyle, Barnie Bentall and friends on mandolin and double bass had the room literally dancing in the aisles with some awesome blue-grass renderings of Rolling Stones songs. MC Marnie McBean was her usual brilliant, irreverend self, dialoguing with the host of Olympic and Paralympic athletes.
For most of the tight-knit crowd of 550, however, the real drama lay with the gastronomic events of the evening. The line-up of the chefs was formidable indeed – perhaps the strongest in the country. The line-up of judges was equally august, led by Senior Judges Sid Cross and Andrew Morrison, with revered chef and restaurateur John Bishop, chef, author and cracker queen Lesley Stowe, food guru and proprietor of the wonderful bookstore Barbara-Jo's Books to Cooks, Barbara-Jo McIntosh, and last year's Vancouver GMP champion, Chef Robert Clark of C. We needed all our experience and judgement last night!
I don't usually mention a fourth place chef in these reports but the other judges were unanimous that I must acknowledge Rod Butters of RauDZ Regional Table in Kelowna. Every ingredient in his dish (except salt) came from within 94 kilometres of his restaurant, including the array of exotic spices he used to create a fascinating collation of goat meat – curried shoulder, a sausage spiked with apricot chutney, the loin rubbed with masala mix, the tissue-thin vegetables… I can't remember having a dish of goat before at GMP: kudos to chef Butters for his staunch localism and all-round courage.
Our bronze medal was awarded to Joël Watanabe of Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie. He showed us how to bring pork belly to the ideal texture by cooking it sous vide for 12 hours then finishing it in the pan to give a crispy crust and finally the oven, just prior to serving, so the the layers of tasty fat were almost beginning to dissolve. He paired his pork with a fruit – Asian pear cut into flattened spheres and then poached under pressure with a little of his chosen wine, a process that literally forced the wine into the pear. There were tiny mounds of jellified superior stock for extra meatiness, a jaunty crisp of deep fried crackling on top and a broad stripe of very sticky buckwheat honey and soy sauce, in case any more umame was needed! Chef's chosen wine, the 2007 sparkling Chenin Blanc from Road 13 Vineyards in Oliver, B.C., was a charming and refreshing counterbalance.
We have often had close marks determining the colour of medals at GMP – never as close as last night. First and second crossed the finish line together, in a blur of talent, and it was necessary to slow everything down and analyze the numbers and scores from each judge to determine the final winner. Both chefs are highly competitive individuals; either one would have been a worthy champion. In the end, it was an Olympic moment – with gold and silver separated by a mere 0.15 of a percentage point.
Our silver medal went to Chef Dale Mackay of Ensemble. He set a bowl in a stunning display of Thai herbs and spices and when we peered inside we saw a tangle of fresh herbs, several peeled local spot prawns (amazingly sweet and juicy), some miniature shimiji mushrooms, three or four tiny moments of bok choy, two slices of a Thai sausage made from coarsely chopped pork butt and spiced with kaffir lime, lemongrass, coriander, anise, turmeric and no doubt several other spices. Then chef poured on his spiced broth from a teapot – a rich, meaty, topaz-coloured pork broth with a profoundly layered flavour of all those Thai spices plus a touch of fish sauce for a funky fermented colour on the palate, and a drop of chili oil. Our tongues were left pleasantly tingling by such a subtle, perfectly integrated soup and despite the amount we had to eat last night, the judges were moaning for more. Chef Mackay's wine was the 2010 Pinot Gris from Laughing Stock Vineyards in Penticton, B.C., aged sur lie so it had nuances of its own and was a pretty good match.
Taking the gold medal, as he has done before, was Chef Rob Feenie of Cactus Club Restaurants with a dish that was masterful in its balance and technique. Chef arrived at the judges' table with instructions that we should begin by downing the shot of rich duck consommé he poured into a shot glass over a brunoise of black winter truffle. "As a palate-cleanser," he explained. On the plate itself, the premier protein was a perfect slice of rabbit leg confit, the delicate but tasty meat lightly pressed together with duck fat, impeccably seasoned and so rich and soft it was beginning to venture into rillettes country. On top of this was a scrumptious ragout of sliced veal tongue, chopped porcini mushrooms and finely diced chestnuts. Brussels sprouts had been chopped and buttered and blessed by minute fragments of applewood-smoked bacon. A squash and brown butter purée pretended it was a vegetable when it was really more of a luxe sauce. Colour and extra texture came from orange-spiked carrots that had been turned into a crisp "paper" and into slippery, ethereal little beads. Chef Feenie's wine was the 2010 Switchback Vineyard Pinot Gris from Haywire, in Summerland, B.C.
So we now have five champions to bring to Kelowna next February. The level of talent is jaw-droppingly high. Tonight we stage our event in Saskatoon – and may the best chef win.
DAVID LAWRASON'S WINE REPORT
Pinot Gris and Riesling in All Their Finery
The wine roster in Vancouver read like an Okanagan who’s who, but to my surprise there were far fewer hefty B.C. reds on display than I would have predicted. Instead, it was B.C. pinot gris, Riesling, and sparklers that dominated the show-floor and the awards. And these very fine, elegant wines captured the tone of perhaps the most refined and accomplished food and wine pairings I have experienced so far in the 2011 campaign.
I was joined for the Best of Show judging by two Vancouver amigos. Anthony Gismondi of the Vancouver Sun and Gismondi On Wine.com, is also Editor in Chief of Wine Access, and my co-founder of the Canadian Wine Awards. Sid Cross is one of the most travelled and accomplished palates in Canada and wine judge for the Canadian Wine Awards. We tasted eleven wines paired with the chefs, plus another two served at the VIP Reception, and four wines donated to the Celebration portion of the evening.
We gave the nod to Best of Show to a spectacular, focused, complex Tantalus 2009 Old Vines Riesling that was impeccably matched to a riesling-inspired creation by chef Mark Filatow of Kelowna. Our second place vote went to Road 13 2007 Old Vine Chenin Blanc Brut, an intriguingly complex, mature yet very lively sparkler. We couldn’t decide on third place so we tied the very rich, semi-tropical yet elegant Mission Hill 2010 Martin’s Lane Riesling, and Black Hill’s 2009 Syrah, a particularly tasty red and a promising debut from young vines. It was poured at the VIP Reception.
The Gold Medal for Best Paired wine went to Haywire 2010 Pinot Gris, matched to the star dish from Rob Feenie’s Cactus Club Restaurants. Haywire, from the Okanagan Crush Pad, is an instant modern classic pinot gris with subtle, layered fruit and a juicy yet refined palate. The silver medallist-paired wine was Laughing Stock 2010 Pinot Gris, a completely different take with pinkish hue and a creamy, subtly oak-influenced palate. The bronze-paired wine was Road 13’s aforementioned Sparkling Chenin Blanc – a white wine sweep!
Other paired wines included: Black Hills 2010 Viognier, Poplar Grove 2006 The Legacy, La Stella 2009 Nine Hundred, and Nichol Vineyard 2010 Pinot Gris; plus a fine apricot-infused beer from Cannery Brewing and a Schramm Gin Cold Herb Tea martini from Pemberton Distillery.
Other wines generously donated for the VIP and Celebration portions of the evening include L’Acadie 2008 Brut Prestige from Nova Scotia, Hillebrand Trius Brut from Niagara, Calliope Figure 8 Red by Burrowing Owl, Laughing Stock 2008 Portfolio and Le Vieux Pin 2008 Adieu Pinot Noir.
2011 Competing Chefs Ned Bell - YEW restaurant + bar & Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver |
2011 Judges James Chatto |
PAST GOLD MEDAL PLATES VANCOUVER WINNERS
2010
GOLD - ROBERT CLARK -
C Restaurant : Paired with Black Hills Estate Winery, B.C.
SILVER - DALE MACKAY -
Lumière : Paired with Tantalus Vineyards, B.C.
BRONZE - NEIL TAYLOR-
Cibo Trattoria : Paired with Foxtrot Vineyards, B.C.
2009
Gold: Chef Rob Feenie, Cactus Club
Silver: Chef Dale MacKay, Lumière
Bronze: Chef Pino Posteraro, Cioppino's
2008
Gold: Chef Frank Pabst, Blue Water Café
Silver: Chef Hidekazu Tojo, Tojo's
Bronze: Chef Andrey Durbach, Parkside
2007
Gold: Chef Pino Posteraro, Cioppino's
Silver: Chef Melissa Craig, The Bearfoot Bistro
Bronze: Chef David Hawksworth, West
2006
Gold: Chef Robert Clark, C Restaurant
Silver: Chef Pino Posteraro, Cioppino's
Bronze: Chef Hidekazu Tojo, Tojo's
James Chatto's Report (www.jameschatto.com)
Last night, in the friendly confines of the Sheraton Wall Centre, Vancouver, where the finals of the 2009 Canadian Culinary Championship were once decided (seems like yesterday), a little bit of Gold Medal Plates history was made. A very merry crowd, primed by excellent food and wine, the spectacular music of Colin James, Jim Cuddy, Barney Bentall and Anne Lindsay, the knife-sharp stand-up of comedian Ron James, and the smooth-as-satin martinis made with our new best friend, locally distilled Victoria gin, bid and bid and bid on the auction prizes, raising a new record sum for a single GMP event, well over a quarter of a million dollars.
The culinary side of of the evening also set a record as the gold, silver and bronze medallists crossed the finish line in what the judges deemed to be very nearly a dead heat, all three separated by no more than 1.5 percent. All ten chefs surpassed themselves on an evening when the gastronomical standards were uniformly high, but when the numbers were crunched, and the judicial brows mopped, here’s how it went down.
Taking the bronze medal was Neil Taylor of Cibo Trattoria. He made spectacular use of local, seasonal ingredients with a carpaccio of wild venison, tender and smoky, dressed with slices of superb pine mushrooms (the best in the world). A tangy, earthy black truffle and celeriac aioli, smooth as a Jim Cuddy lyric, grounded the dish while paper-thin shavings of red-wine-soaked pecorino pushed the flavours skyward. Wild watercress added the “green” to the flavour and colour spectrum of the dish. The wine pairing, with Foxtrot Vineyards awesome 2007 Pinot Noir from the Okanagan vineyards, was the most precise and seductive of the night.
The judges awarded the silver medal, for the second year in a row, to Dale Mackay of Lumiere, who pipped Neil Taylor by about half a percentage point, in true Olympic fashion. Chef offered the archetype of baked B.C. black cod – a small but perfect fillet that broke into moist, glossy petals at the touch of a fork. Morsels of smoked tomato lay on its surface and beneath it was a jumble of corn kernels, finely shredded kale and button mushroom, all textures and flavours distinct and bold. Mackay finished the dish by pouring on a little consommé made from barbecued pork spiked with a beautifully judged combination of spices like a smoky version of five-spice. Just to make the point, a bowl of those spices was set down on the judges’ table to add to the general atmosphere and the chosen wine seemed to pick them out of the dish – a big, off-dry, fruity, petrolly 2009 Riesling from Tantalus in B.C.
The gold medal was awarded to chef Rob Clark of C restaurant, who also won gold in 2006. He presented a 
demi-tasse of translucent, pure tomato consommé as a palate cleanser. Then, having primed our taste buds, pow! A slice of a delectable terrine made with Fraser Canyon rabbit was as moist and rich and sapid as rillettes, with spot prawns as hidden treasures in the luxe matrix. Subtle, sweetly pickled chanterelles were one delightful counterpoint; another was a slender tuile, simultaneously peppery and sweet, providing textural crunch. His chosen wine was a great match, finding all sorts of nuances in the rabbit – an aromatic 2009 Viognier from Black Hills estate winery in B.C.
This was an incredibly closely fought contest and all the medallists deserve huge applause, but it’s chef Clark who will be going on to Kelowna next February to compete in the Candian Culinary Championships for the second time.
The Gold Medal Plates Wine and Beverage Report 2010
By David Lawrason
The sold out, eight-city 2010 Gold Medal Plates tour showcased the products of a record 62 Canadian wineries, cideries, sake producers, breweries and distillers – with 17 participating in more than one city, and five in three or more cities. They donated over 400 cases to be enjoyed by over 4,500 guests coast to coast. My deepest thanks to the industry for its support and largesse for supporting what has become the largest national showcase for Canadian wine.
Seven wineries will be accompanying their Gold Medal Chefs to the Canadian Culinary Championships in Kelowna, B.C. in February. There are eight cities competing in Kelowna but B.C.s Road 13 Winery has pulled off the impossible by winning in two cities – Edmonton and Saskatoon. Other CCC wineries are Black Hills and Tantalus from B.C.; Hillebrand Trius, Fielding Estate and Ravine from Ontario, and La Face Cachée de la Pomme from Quebec.
The winning wineries do not have to use the same wine that won gold, but they must work with the chef to find a great match within their portfolio. The food and wine pairing is scored by the judges and in a close race with so much talent in the room, it could make the difference. The tension will be running high.
I was particularly pleased by two new developments in the 2010 campaign. In keeping with other dramatic improvements in the Celebration program, the wine quality jumped this year as donors generously came up with some of Canada’s top wines for hundreds of guests. Laughing Stock Vineyards of B.C. poured its 2007 Portfolio in Edmonton and Saskatoon, and La Vieux Pin opened its 2007 Merlot in Vancouver and La Stella 2007 Fortissimo Calgary. Malivoire Wine Company of Niagara poured its 2009 Gamay and Guilty Men White in Toronto and Ottawa. Up to 20 cases were donated to the Celebrations in each city.
Rickards Red also generously donated their range of Canadian brews to the Celebrations and VIP Receptions in all cities.
For the first time Gold Medal Plates welcomed new, small Canadian distillers to festivities. We were particularly thrilled to test drive Victoria Gin in martinis served at the VIP Receptions in Vancouver, Edmonton and Calgary. This small Vancouver Island based distillery is just breaking into markets across the country and promises to be back nationwide in 2012. In Toronto and Ottawa we also poured a new Canadian “white” rye whiskey called White Owl, by Alberta’s Highwood Distillers. Thanks very much to Ontario agent Woodman Wines and Spirits for arranging this special cameo appearances.
In another departure for 2011, Canadian sparkling wine producers who won medals in the Canadian Wine Awards were approached to donate their gold and silver medal winning wines to the VIP Receptions. The east-west mix was excellent with Hillebrand Trius Brut from Niagara offered in most cities, as were B.C.’s See Ya Later Ranch Brut and Sumac Ridge Steller’s Jay Brut – both Vincor properties. B.C.’s Blue Mountain Brut was poured in Vancouver and Toronto. L’Acadie Brut from Nova Scotia was poured in St. Johns and Toronto as well. Grange of Prince Edward 2007 Brut was shown in Toronto and Ottawa, and Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine was also poured in Toronto.
But as always it was the chef/winery pairings that provided the real fireworks and stoked much of the conversation. Here are the list of wineries, with the chefs and restaurants, city by city, with the Gold, Silver and Bronze medalists heading each section. Cities are listed in the chronological order of the date the their competition was held
The Competition Wines, Chefs and Restaurants
MONTREAL October 19
La Face Cachée de la Pomme Dégel Martin Juneau - La Montée (GOLD)
Osoyoos Larose 2006, Marc-André Royal - Le St-Urbain (SILVER)
Malivoire 2008 Gamay, Michel Ross - MAS Cuisine (BRONZE)
Junmai Nama Nigori Sake, Darren Bergeron – Decca 77
Nichol Vineyard 2006 St. Laurent 2006, Derek Damann – DNA
Quail’s Gate 2009 Dry Riesling, Alexandre Gosselin - Bar & Boeuf
Stratus 206 White, Alexandre Loiseau – Cocagne
Lailey 2007 Cabernet Franc Francis Pouliot – Laurie-Raphaël, Hôtel Germain
EDMONTON Oct 27
Road 13 2008 Jackpot Pinot Noir 2008, Andrew Fung - Blackhawk Golf Course (GOLD)
Tinhorn Creek 2009 Gewurztraminer , Michael Brown - Pradera, The Westin (SILVER)
Wayne Gretzky 2005 Vidal Icewine, Shane Chartrand - L2 Fantasyland Hotel (BRONZE)
La Stella 2009 Unoaked Chardonnay, Paul Campbell - Café de Ville
Mission Hill 2007 Shiraz, Christophe Ithurritze - Sage Restaurant
Hillside Estate 2009 Gewurztraminer, Susan Kellock - Skinny Legs and Cowgirls
Quail’s Gate 2008 Old Vines Foch, Tracy Lydtser - Dish
Le Vieux Pin 2007 Merlot, David Omar - ZINC
Cedar Creek Estate 2008 Chardonnay, Paul Shufelt - Hundred Bar and Kitchen
Sandhill 2005 Barbera Small Lots, Jan Trittenbach - Packrat Louie Kitchen & Bar
VANCOUVER OCT 29
Black Hills Estate 2009 Viognier , Robert Clark - C (GOLD)
Tantalus 2009 Riesling, Dale Mackay - Lumiere (SILVER)
Foxtrot Vineyards 2007 Pinot Noir, Neil Taylor - Cibo Trattoria (BRONZE)
La Stella 2009 Pinot Grigio Vivace, Darren Brown - Coast
Sandhill 2009 Small Lots Viognier , Quang Dang - Diva at the Met
Aces Okanagan Estate Pocket King , Stuart Klassen - Delta Grand Kelowna
Painted Rock Red 2007 Icon, Nick Nutting - The Wickaninnish Inn, Tofino
8th Generation 2009 Chardonnay Frizzante, Nico Schuermans - Chambar
Quail’s Gate 2009 Pinot Noir, Roger Sleiman , Quails Gate Winery, Kelowna
Laughing Stock 2007 Portfolio, Cam Smith & Dana Ewarts - Joy Road, Penticton
SASKATOON OCT 30
Road 13 2008 Rockpile, Dan Walker - Weczeria Food & Wine (GOLD)
Black Hills 2008 Nota Bene 2008, Ryan Marquis - Delta Bessborough (SILVER)
Peller Estates 2008 Pinot Blanc, Anthony McCarthy - Saskatoon Club (BRONZE)
Tree Brewing Hop Head IPA, Malcolm Craig - Beer Bros. Bakery & Cuisine, Regina
Morning Bay 2005 Merlot, Kevin Dahlsjo - Sublime Catering, Prince Albert
Noble Ridge 2007 Pinot Noir, Tim Davies - Willow on Wascana, Regina
Orofino 2009 Riesling, Lee Helman - Truffles Bistro
Tinhorn Creek Oldfield Series 2006 Merlot, Leo Pantel - Conexus Arts Centre, Regina
Cave Spring 2008 Pinot Noir, Rusty Penno - The Boffins Club
Lake Breeze 2009 Pinot Gris, Peter Phillips - Riverside Country Club
TORONTO Nov 4
Trius Red 2008, Frank Dodd, Hillebrand Winery, Niagara (GOLD)
Hidden Bench 2008 Estate Chardonnay, Lorenzo Loseto – George (SILVER)
Henry of Pelham 2007 Baco Noir Reserve, Michael Steh - Reds (BRONZE)
Tawse 2009 Pinot Noir, Ted Corrado - C5
Cave Spring 2008 Chenin Blanc, Jonathan Gushue - Langdon Hall, Cambridge
Southbrook 2007 Poetica Cabernet Merlot, Jamie Kennedy - Gilead Bistro
Organized Crime 2008 Cabernet Franc , Lora Kirk - Ruby Watchco
Konzelmann 2007 4 Generations Merlot, Martin Kouprie - Pangaea
Norman Hardie 2008 County Chardonnay, Anthony Walsh - Canoe
Stratus Red 2006, Anne Yarymowich - Frank
CALGARY Nov 12
Tantalus 2008 Pinot Noir, Duncan Ly - Raw Bar Hotel Arts (GOLD)
Noble Ridge 2007 Pinot Noir, Shaun Desaulniers - Belgo (SILVER)
Laughing Stock 2009 Chardonnay, Justin Leboe - Model Milk (BRONZE)
Laughing Stock 2007 Meritage Blend, Jared Alvey - Petite
Black Hills 2007 Carmenere, Cam Dobranski - Muse
Black Hills 2009 Alibi, Chris Grafton - Murrieta’s
Summerhill Pyramid Pinot Noir Brut, Charlie Holschuh - Bavarian Inn
Sandhill Estate 2007 Three , Andrew Keen - Chop Steakhouse and Bar
Henry of Pelham 2006 Select late Harvest Vidal, Bob Matthews - La Chaumière
Desert Hills Winery 2009 Gamay, Paul Rogalski - Rouge
OTTAWA Nov 16
Fielding Estates 2008 Pinot Gris, Michael Moffatt - Beckta Dining and Wine (GOLD)
Angels Gate 2008 Archangel Sparkling Pinot Noir, Caroline Ishii - Zen Kitchen (SILVER)
Hillebrand 2008 Artist Gewurztraminer, Ross & Simon Fraser - Fraser Café (BRONZE)
Niagara College 2007 Dean’s List Meritage, Ben Baird - The Urban Pear
Vineland Estate 2008 Chenin Blanc, Charlotte Langley - Whalesbone Oyster House
Cave Springs 2009 Gewurztraminer, Marc Lepine - Atelier
Norman Hardie 2008 County Pinot Noir, Steve Mitton - Murray Street
Sandbanks Winter Harvest 2008 Vidal, Charles Part - Les Fougères, Gatineau
Rosehall Run 2008 Pinot Noir, Michael Potters - Harvest, Picton
Casa-Dea 2009 Chardonnay, Rene Rodriguez - Navarra
ST. JOHN’S Nov 18
Ravine Vineyards 2008 Merlot, Jeremy Charles – Raymonds (GOLD)
Shiver Vodka (Nfld), Tak Ishiwata – Basho (SILVER)
Prospect Winery 2007 Haynes Barn Merlot Cabernet, Roary MacPherson - Sheraton Hotel (BRONZE)
Peninsula Ridge 2008 Viognier, Mike Barsky - Bacalao
Domaine de Grand Pré 2009 Millot-Pete Luckett Vnyd, Jason Lynch - Le Caveau, Wolfville
Tangled Garden Damson & Basil liqueur & Iceberg Gin, Stephen MacDonald -Oliver’s Restaurant
Trius 2008 Dry Riesling, Mark McCrowe - Aqua
Storm Coffee Porter, Steve Vardy - Atlantica
|
DARREN BROWN - Coast |
LaStella Winery, B.C. |
VANCOUVER EVENT SUMMARY 2009
Last night, the Olympic city of Vancouver restated its intention to be regarded as Canada's gastronomic capital with a dazzling sell-out fundraiser for Gold Medal Plates. The evening began with a VIP reception where lucky guests were treated to an array of Canada's finest wines as chosen by GMP National Wine Advisor, David Lawrason, and Wine Access magazine. Last year's gold-medal chef, Frank Pabst of Blue Water Café, provided a delectable accompaniment in the form of tiny pyramids of crab mousse topped with sustainable Canadian sturgeon caviar. Speeches were inspiring, pertinent and brief - then the crowd headed off for the first part of the evening, the chefs' competition, pausing between stations to bid on the rare wine silent auction - an exceptional collection this year thanks in large part to the generosity of Mr. Edgar Kaiser Jr. Where our chefs were concerned, the list of gustatory gladiators was the strongest ever gathered in this city, with every competitor a potential winner, and standards were extraordinarily high. The final decisions were only reached after close to an hour of deliberation among the hard-working judges. Their reward was a sit-down celebration and some great music from Jim Cuddy and Stephen Page.
In the end, the bronze medal was awarded to former gold-medallist Pino Posteraro of Cioppino's. He began by presenting an "amuse" - morsels of sweet, maple-marinated sable fish on a tangy jelly made from his chosen wine, a delectable Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blend called Alibi from Black Hills Estate Winery in B.C.'s Okanagan valley. Then came a small bowl containing a perfectly textured raviolo filled with smoked sable fish and a dab of puréed potato. Beneath this was a bed of impeccably tender-firm green Umbrian lentils cooked in the broth that had poached the smoked fish, reinforced with some smoked olive oil. The sauce was a spot prawn cream subtly enhanced with traces of parmesan, lemon and Demerara sugar, a little of which had been turned into a snowy foam that capped the raviolo. All in all, a stunning affair.
The silver medal was awarded to Dale Mackay of Lumière. He presented a most elegant dish consisting of three components, with flavours that drew moans of pleasure from the judges. The principal element was a slice of a terrine en croute, its delicate frame of soft pastry shaped like an arched chancel window, but instead of stained glass Chef Mackay had layered several treatments of Sloping Hill Farm pork, using the gizzard, leg and belly, reinforced with foie gras and a topaz-coloured Okanagan quince jelly. Beside it, tiny turned radish, turnip, cornichon and poached quince had been lightly pickled - they looked like a handful of precious gems. On the right a rectangular strip of firm quince jelly was another sweet-tart condiment while a teaspoonful of pork jus completed the dish. Chef Mackay's chosen wine, a tangy 2008 Tantalus Riesling from the Okanagan, was a luminous match.
The gold medal, not for the first time, was awarded to Rob Feenie of Cactus Club. He began his dish with a teaspoonful of sorbet made from parsnip, pear and pineapple, perfectly judged to introduce flavours in his chosen wine, a big, bright 2008 blend of Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne from Road 13 in the Okanagan. Two principal elements on the plate that followed wowed the judges: first, a brick-shaped portion of layered Virginia Jacobs duck meat confited sous-vide for 24 hours to the peak of tenderness. Beside it, Chef Feenie posed a small boudin noir made of pressed chicken from Polderside Farms in Chiliwack, subtly enriched with foie gras. A dot of puréed fig was one garnish, matching another illusory moment in the wine; on top of everything lay a flavourful slice of flash-frozen truffle. More truffle was chopped up and mixed with a vinegar-based sauce, its acidity muted and mellow. The dish had its own thrilling and resonant harmonies and eventually emerged as a most worthy winner.
Congratulations to all the chefs who performed so well, and to the judges who had their work cut out determining a winner from such a talented field. Chef Feenie goes on to the Canadian Culinary Championship in Vancouver in November which is already shaping up to be the mother of all gastronomic confrontations.
James Chatto
National Culinary Advisor
Gold Medal Plates
A special thank you to our Platinum Sponsor Edward Kaiser Jr for his gracious donation to the Vancouver rare wine auction, allowing us to raise even more money for Canada's Olympic and Paralympic athletes.
CANADIAN WINE INDUSTRY STEPS UP TO THE PODIUM
By donating over 325 cases of wine to the seven city Gold Medal Plates culinary competitions and the Canadian Culinary Championships this fall, the Canadian wine, beer and spirits industry has contributed close to $100,000 in support of Canada's Olympic and Paralympic athletes. Sixty-five wineries stepped up to either pair wines with the competing chefs or provide Canadian Wine Awards gold medalists to VIP receptions at the events. Please see the list of donating wineries, city by city, below or at www.goldmedalplates.com.
The list includes wineries owned by Vincor Canada, official wine sponsor of the Vancouver 2010 Olympic Winter Games. Sponsorship however was not involved in deciding which wines were served by the chefs or at the VIP receptions. Each chef selected their wine independently as the success of the food-and-wine pairing was part of the judges' scoring process.
Since 2004, Gold Medal Plates has raised over $3.5 million dollars for Canada's Olympians. The program is designed to encourage and showcase Canadian excellence in the areas of sport, food and wine and entertainment, and has evolved to become the leading culinary competition in Canada!
The Winners in 2009
After local competitions in St. John's, Montreal, Ottawa, Toronto, Calgary, Edmonton and Vancouver, the 2009 Gold Medal Plates campaign ended with the Canadian Culinary Championships in Vancouver on November 28.
The 2009 Canadian Culinary Champion is Mathieu Cloutier of Kitchen Galerie in Montreal, who paired with Huff Estate 2007 South Bay Chardonnay from Prince Edward County in Ontario. The silver medalist was David Lee of Nota Bene in Toronto, who paired with 13th Street 2008 June Vineyard Riesling from Niagara. Completing the sweep for Ontario wine, the bronze went to Matthew Carmichael of Restaurant 18 in Ottawa, who paired with Closson Chase 2007 South Clos Chardonnay, also from Prince Edward County.
The winery that won the gold in its respective city competition was automatically invited to the Canadian Culinary Championships as a partner with the competing chef. The other participating CCC wineries included the Okanagan's Road 13 which took gold in both the Calgary and Vancouver competitions, Joie Farm (its 2008 Rose took the gold in Edmonton and was also poured in Vancouver) and Hillebrand Estates (its Trius 2006 Red from Niagara took the gold in St. John's).
The Mystery Wine Pairing Competition
One of the most exciting elements of the Canadian Culinary Championships was a Mystery Wine Pairing held at the trendy Republic nightclub in Vancouver. The chefs were given an unlabeled bottle and had 24 hours to shop, prepare and serve a matching dish to 200 guests. Montreal's Mathieu Cloutier was the People's Choice winner of this leg of the competition.
The Mystery Wine was revealed to be Black Hills 2008 Alibi, a crisp, complex sauvignon blanc and semillon blend that provided great refreshment with all the chefs creations then dovetailed beautifully with the best of the evening. Black Hills donated 10 cases to this event, plus another four cases to the Vancouver event, making this premier Okanagan winery the largest single donor to Gold Medal Plates 2009. Many thanks to winery President, Glenn Fawcett, who also generously donated to the Live Auction.
Canadian Wine Awards Gold Medalists Showcase
This year, Gold Medal Plates also teamed up with the Wine Access magazine Canadian Wine Awards to provide an opportunity for almost 2,000 VIP guests to taste gold medalists from the 2009 Awards programs. Wineries that had won gold were asked to donate six bottles to one or more cities, and most came through with flying colours. Those wineries are also listed below, and complete results of the Canadian Wine Awards can be found in the December issue of Wine Access magazine now on newsstands.
The Wine Access Canadian Wine Awards participating wineries:
Burrowing Owl, BC
Fielding Estate, ON
Hillebrand (Trius), ON
Kacaba Vineyards, ON
Mission Hill Family Estate Winery, BC
Quail's Gate Winery, BC
Road 13 Vineyards, BC
Rosehall Run Winery, ON
Sandhill Wines, BC. (CWA Winery of the Year)
See Ya Later Ranch, BC
Seven Stones, BC
Stag's Hollow, BC
Thirty Bench, ON
Thornhaven Estates, BC
The Wines - City by City
St. John's
Trius 2006 Red, Niagara Peninsula, ON - GOLD
Norman Hardie 2007 Pinot Noir, Prince Edward County, ON - SILVER
Prospect Winery 2008 Larch Tree Riesling, Okanagan Valley, B.C. - BRONZE
Domaine Pinnacle Apple Ice Wine, QC
Iceberg Vodka, NL
Inniskillin 2007 Cabernet Franc, Niagara, ON
Mission Hill 2008 Pinot Blanc, Okanagan Valley, BC
Peninsula Ridge 2007 Reserve Chardonnay, Niagara, ON
Rodrigues Markland Cottage Sedna Vodka, NL
Montreal
Huff Estates 2008 Merlot, ON - GOLD
Malivoire 2007 Chardonnay, Niagara Peninsula, ON - SILVER
Rosehall Run 2007 Cuvée County Chardonnay, Prince Edward County, ON - BRONZE
Black Prince 2005 First Crush Chardonnay, Prince Edward County, ON
Creemore Springs Brewery, ON
Norman Hardie 2007 Pinot Noir, Prince Edward County, ON
Val Caudalies 2008 Vidal Demi-Sec, QC
Wayne Gretzky No. 99 Estates 2007 Merlot, Niagara Peninsula, ON
Wayne Gretzky No.99 Estates2007 Chardonnay, Niagara Peninsula, ON
Ottawa
Closson Chase 2007 South Clos Chardonnay, Prince Edward County, ON - GOLD
Vignoble Les Pervenches 2007 Chardonnay Seyval Blanc, QC - SILVER
Southbrook 2005 Cabernet Merlot, Niagara Peninsula, ON - BRONZE
Angel's Gate 2007 Riesling, ON
Cave Spring 2007 Riesling, Niagara Peninsula, ON
Chateau des Charmes 2006 Cabernet-Merlot, Niagara Peninsula, ON
Coyote's Run 2007 Red Paw Pinot Noir, Niagara Peninsula, ON
Peller Estates 2007 Meritage, Niagara Peninsula, ON
Stratus 2007 Wildass White, Niagara Peninsula, ON
Tawse 2006 Echoes White, Niagara Peninsula, ON
Toronto
13th Street 2008 Riesling June's Vineyard, Niagara Peninsula, ON - GOLD
Daniel Lenko 2007 Gewurztraminer, Niagara Peninsula, ON - SILVER
Cave Spring 2007 Estate Riesling, Niagara Peninsula, ON - BRONZE
Chateau des Charmes 2007 Riesling and 2006 Gamay Noir, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON
Closson Chase 2007 South Clos Chardonnay, Prince Edward County, ON
Fielding Estate 2008 Pinot Gris, Beamsville Bench, ON
Henry of Pelham 2007 Baco Noir, Niagara Peninsula, ON
Hidden Bench 2007 Terroir Caché, Beamsville Bench, ON
Mission Hill 2006 Reserve Merlot, Okanagan, B.C.
Organized Crime 2008 Riesling Reserve, Beamsville Bench, ON
Edmonton
JoieFarm 2008 Rose, Okanagan Valley, BC - GOLD
Kettle Valley 2008, Chardonnay, Naramata, BC - SILVER
Road 13 2007 Syrah 2007, Okanagan Valley BC - BRONZE
Cedar Creek 2006 Meritage, Okanagan Valley, BC
Gehringer Brother PR 2007 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, BC
Malivoire 2008 Ladybug Rose, Beamsville Bench, ON
Mission Hill 2006 S.L.C Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, BC
Meyer Family Tribute Series Bill Reid 2007 Chardonnay, Naramata, BC
Morning Bay 2006 Pinot Noir, Pender Island, BC
Quails' Gate 2007 Old Vine Fosch, Okanagan Valley, BC
Calgary
Road 13 Vineyards 2007 Syrah, Okanagan Valley, BC - GOLD
Quail's Gate Vineyard 2007 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, BC - SILVER
SAP Vampire Maple Lager - BRONZE
Black Hills 2007 Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, BC
Blue Mountain 2008 Gamay Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, BC
Gray Monk Estate Winery, 2007 Riesling, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia
Laughing Stock Vineyards 2008 Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, BC
Nk'mip Cellars 2007 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley, BC
Osoyoos Larose 2004 Petalos, Okanagan Valley, BC
Vancouver
Road 13 2008 Viognier Roussanne Marsanne, Okanagan Valley, BC - GOLD
Tantalus 2008 Riesling, Okanagan Valley, BC - SILVER
Black Hills 2008 Alibi, Okanagan Valley, BC - BRONZE
Blasted Church 2008 Pinot Gris, Okanagan Valley, BC
Clos du Soleil 2007 Meritage, Similkameen Valley, BC
8th Generation 200 Riesling, Okanagan Valley, BC
Joie Farm 2007 Reserve Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley, BC
Le Vieux Pin 2008 Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Okanagan Valley, BC
Stoneboat 2007 Pinotage, Okanagan Valley, BC
Wild Goose 2008 Autumm Gold, Okanagan Valley, BC
For more information contact:
David Lawrason
National Wine Advisor
Gold Medal Plates
Phone: 613-885-4489
Email: david@davidlawrason.com